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Poached Virginia Country Ham
by Molly O'Neill
Virginia country ham packs a lot of flavor in every bite, and so a normal serving is considerably smaller than its “city ham” cousin — the glazed and watery hams most of us are accustomed to. Sam Edwards, a third-generation ham producer from Surry, Va., reckons on a four-ounce serving for each person. His family serves ham with sweet potatoes, collard greens, and Aunt Glady’s broccoli salad. For a hint of sweetness, Leni Sorensen, a Virginia transplant and country ham devotee, poaches ham in a mixture of half water and half apple juice.
1 2-3 pound Virginia country ham, aged 1 year
1 cup brown sugar (or your favorite glaze)
Whole cloves
1. Remove the natural (and harmless) mold on the skin of the ham by scrubbing it with a stiff brush and warm water. To remove excess salt, place the ham in a large pot, add hot water to cover, and soak overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Drain the ham, return it to the pot, and add enough cold water to completely cover it. Bring the water to slow simmer (not a boil) and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes per pound (4 to 5 hours for a 12-pound ham), or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the ham (but not touching the bone) reads 160 degrees. Add more water as needed to keep the ham covered.
3. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Remove the ham from the pot. While the ham is still warm, use a knife to remove the skin and all but a thin layer (about 1/4-inch thick) of the fat. Rub the outside of the trimmed ham all over with the brown sugar or glaze. Using a sharp knife, score the ham in a cross-hatch pattern and stick whole cloves into the ham. Bake until the outside of the ham is lightly browned, about 30 minutes.
Serves 8 to 12.
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