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quebec

Quebec City: 400 Years and Counting!

Sample European culture and charm without even crossing the pond

by Susan Campbell

A visit to North America’s oldest fortified city — a UNESCO heritage travel destination — is always a treat for all ages. But this year will be especially rewarding with a plethora of additional public extravaganzas planned to celebrate Quebec City’s founding by explorer Samuel de Champlain. As host to millions of visitors every year for the world’s largest annual outdoor Winter Carnival, you can be sure that this city really knows how to throw a party!

And to celebrate the city's 400th anniversary, the party lasted for 120 days, beginning June 3, 2008. The theme was “Meetings and Encounters” and the nexus of the celebrations was Espace 400e. This riverfront exhibition space came alive with  fireworks, Ephemeral Gardens with a special sensory garden for children, and a Celine Dion free outdoor concert. Plus, Paul McCartney rocked the Plains of Abraham with another free concert.

The celebrations have ended but Quebec City continues to offer exciting  attractions for you and your grandchildren.

Cavort in a Castle
Fairmount’s Le Château Frontenac is the city’s most famous grand bastion landmark. Though it looks imposing, it’s surprisingly kid-friendly. If possible, try to spend at least one night here, after all what child would not want to sleep in a castle? Children can take customized guided tours replete with period-costumed characters, or polish their manners in a fun afternoon tea program with “Madam Rose.” But it’s really all about the magnificent building. As one young boy exclaimed as he entered the grand ballroom, “Mom! It’s like Hogwarts, only nicer!”

Explore the Old City
Get some self-guided maps of Upper and Lower Towns, or book a guided walking tour, because if ever there was a city for sightseeing by strolling, this is it! Dufferin Terrace has high-powered telescopes to view the St. Lawrence River, which flows below the churches, shops, cafes, cannons, and old military fortifications built on cobblestone streets into the sheer cliff.

There are stairs down, but be forewarned: They are very steep, in fact one run is actually called “breakneck stairs.” Best bet is taking the funicular cable elevator down from the terrace for a small fee. You can rest nearby at Battlefield Park on the Plains of Abraham while your grandchildren frolic.

Another way to get around is by the trademark calèche (horse-drawn carriage), a tad pricey, but magically memorable. And a ferry ride across the mighty St Lawrence to Lévis offers fabulous views of the city from the water. It is inexpensive, fun for kids, and a wonderful way to rest tired legs. You need not even get off on the other side if you don’t want to.

Unearth Unique Treasures
Seek out la Rue de Trésor (Treasure Street), an artist’s alley showcasing local talent. On the spot portraits or caricatures here make wonderful souvenirs. Choco-Musée Érico will bring out the Willy Wonka in everyone; it’s a little chocolate shop and museum where one can actually watch the chocolatiers at work. Then there’s Les Dames de Soie, an old-fashioned doll-making shop where you can make your own porcelain dolls, have stuffed animals repaired, or purchase collectables. Verrerie la Mailloche offers glassblowing demonstrations in a beautiful glassworks shop. For rainy day fun, visit Mega Parc — the second largest indoor amusement park in North America set in a huge shopping complex.

Bring History to Life
Quebec City has a multitude of museums, but some will have children’s eyes glazing over from boredom; it all depends on their ages and interests. However, the Musée de la Civilisation (Civilization Museum) is guaranteed to excite all ages. The modern multimedia presentation at the Place-Royale Interpretation Center might also interest older children.

Experience Nature
Quebec is blessed with abundant nature close by. Magnificent Montmorency Falls is mere minutes from the city. Higher than Niagara Falls, there are cable cars, suspension bridges and lots of trails to explore. Loto Quebec’s annual international fireworks competition uses this natural wonder as its backdrop. Children should also enjoy the Parc Aquarium du Québec with its seals and polar bears highlighting the region’s ecosystems.

Enjoy Local Eats and Treats

With the province’s most famous local desert being sugar pie and its most famous export maple syrup, you’ll have no problem getting your grandchildren to eat local. Also poutine — a decadent mishmash of french fries, curd cheese, and gravy — is bound to impress. Crêpe and quiche spots offer every kind of filling known to man, and the hearty pea soup, meat pies (tourtières), and baked beans should also please.

Of course, Quebec is a culinary cornucopia offering every kind of cuisine and fast food imaginable, but if you are adventurous and want to try authentic Québécois fare, a good bet is Aux Anciens Canadiens. The restaurant specializes in game — like caribou, elk, and pheasant — which might not hit it big with little ones.

If you visit during spring, seek out a sugar shack (cabane à sucre) for a real maple syrup on EVERYTHING meal. It’s a wonderful outing for children replete with folk music, horse-drawn sleigh rides, and lots of sweet fun!

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about the author

Susan Campbell is a Montreal-based travel and lifestyle writer specializing in Canada and the Caribbean.
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