Adapted from Flavors of Tuscany by Nancy Harmon Jenkins (Broadway, 1998).

Nancy Harmon Jenkins notes: “As with so many Tuscan recipes, the trick to making a fantastic pappa al pomodoro is in selecting the raw material, in this case tomatoes. This is one of those dishes that should really be made only when fresh, red, utterly ripe tomatoes are available from local farms, or, better yet, your own garden. The Tuscan tomato season lasts a good deal longer than it does in most parts of the United States; still, the minute the tomatoes are ripe, good cooks drop everything and turn to pappa.”

2 pounds fresh red ripe tomatoes, cut into chunks
1 yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
4 or 5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed with the flat side of a knife, and chopped
1/2 pound country-style bread, crusts removed
1 stalk basil
Pinch of sugar (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil and basil leaves for garnish

1. In a large pot, combine the tomatoes, onion, carrot, celery, parsley, and 1/4 cup water. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are very soft. Add a little boiling water to the pan from time to time if necessary to keep the vegetables from sticking. Midway through the cooking, taste and add salt and pepper.

2. When the vegetables are tender, remove the pot from the heat and allow to cool a little. When cool, put the sauce through the fine disk of a food mill. Strain the resulting puree, if desired, and set aside. You should have about 3 cups.

3. Heat the olive oil in a soup pot over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned.

4. Tear the bread into big pieces and add to the pan with the garlic. Add the basil and 2 cups boiling water and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon and breaking up the bread. Adding more boiling water from time to time, up to 1 cup more.

5. When the bread has thoroughly broken down and absorbed the water, stir in 2 1/2 cups of reserved tomato puree. Taste and add more salt and pepper if desired. Add the sugar if desired.

6. Place over very low heat and cook, stirring frequently, for about 1 hour longer, adding more boiling water or hot tomato sauce to keep the soup from the sticking. It should be very dense but still pourable.

7. When the soup is done, set it aside to cool to room temperature (do not refrigerate). Remove and discard the basil. Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve each portion drizzled with a bit of extra-virgin olive oil and garnished with a few basil leaves.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.